This is not complete. Nor is it regularly updated.
- did line voltage conversion (15 Feb 02)
- re-seated U9 (twice) to get CPU to boot, which it now does.
Having several friends with degrees in electrical engineering
is convenient. Replaced all fuses; many were bogus values.
(16 Feb 02)
- repeatedly jiggled red switch matrix wires to get them to
light up. IDC connectors suck; .100" connectors suck.
(18 Feb 02)
- 9.4H ROM installed. Can now cheat at LITZ.
Can enable buy-in without fear of losing my high scores.
Cool effect for scoring hitchhiker pickups, too.
Thanks, Brian! (21 Feb 02)
- Cleaned Powerball with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish
at Dave's recommendation... and supply of the polish.
It's now much closer to white, and probably a hell of a lot
faster, too. (21 Feb 02)
Replaced BR2 (and BR1). Couldn't replace cap at C5 because I
can't see how to get it off the board! Reset problems seem to
have gone away, but introduced complete hosage at some point
in messing around, unfortunately. (23 Feb 02)
Brian Kidder came over, blessed the machine, and re-seated the
connectors. Now it runs but doesn't randomly reset. In doing
so at one point the DMD had vertical bars running down it and
many of the sounds were just wrong. The problem was
apparently that the four-plug ribbon cable got hosed somehow.
Now the game is using a freak five-connector IDE cable I had
sitting around but the vertical bars are gone and the sounds
play normally. (27 Feb 02)
Re-built the J133 column connector with a Molex connector I
had and Trifurcon pins. This is probably overkill but all the
controlled lamps work well now. (4 Mar 2002)
Fender washer added to left slingshot; will add one to the
right slingshot and replace both plastics with apparently NOS
parts when I get washers to protect the mounting holes. Misc
cleaning under powerfield. (10 Mar 2002)
Left playfield was bent. Playfield maintenance was a
challenge: hammered it into shape so it locks on the way out,
but it doesn't unlock on the way in. Replaced with a new part
from PBR, and suddenly I can imagine fixing the rest of the
problems with this game--raising the playfield no longer
worries me! Rocket plastic replaced with an uncracked repro.
Bulb cover placed on left spiral (not quite the same color,
but good enough). (11 Mar 2002)
Shooter shaft was not the original part; the knob was chromed,
not black, and smaller than what should have been there; the
and the tip was a mushroomed point that wouldn't come out.
The spring was way to powerful. We got the spring off and
replaced it with a weaker one, but have since replaced it with
the proper ultra-wimpy strength after removing the junk shaft
with a hacksaw. I think I like hacksaws. For some reason
it's not quite the right length, though, and I need to use a
short barrel spring (one that was on there to begin with, but
is discolored) instead of a full-size one or there is very
little contact with the ball. (12 Mar 2002)
Replaced fuses F601, F602 with new 3/8A fuses. One was 1/4A,
the other was an old 3/8A that came with the game; now
everything is the right value and also generally a new
replacement. (12 Mar 2002)
Q52, Q51 replaced, lower bumper working again. Put the
powerfield back in after some cleaning. Fix wire broken off
of pop bumper. Replaced slot machine 5-million target.
Replaced another 5-million target that activated only
occasionally (switch 67). Fire up the machine and it's
resetting again; Kidder rebuilt J101, and now everything is
okay. Replaced upper-left flipper coil. Old one was orange;
should be green (explains why switch 67 took such abuse). New
one can still get the ball up the ramp because it's nice and
clean. Old coil was burnt anyway. It had a weird screw-on
set of terminals soldered to it for easy removal, which I'm
just going to throw out. Flipper pawl looks good but I may
replace it anyway. Coil stop looks rusted, though, and I'm
not sure that the bushing underneath is any good. Two bumper
caps replaced: red is okay, orange substituted for amber
(might have to switch to red for it); yellow is not available
right now. (13 Mar 2002)
Jet bumper ring screw sheared off on one side; metal armature
bit ripped in half. This happens of course at 1AM. Drove to
distributor, got new parts, fixed bumper (upper left). Also
replaced coil on lower bumper, as the coil measured 3 ohms
when other coils measured 10. Once again it's good to have
electrical engineers as friends who can solder.
(15 Mar 2002)
Legs replaced. Back legs now mounted in proper holes (why are
there three holes on the back, anyway?) so the playfield is at
6.5 degrees or so. Doing this with several people was much
easier. Of course this makes the flippers seem weak. (15 Mar
Took off the bottom arch and cleaned. Did not remove the
right-side bits over the shooter (they're tough to get off)
but cleaned underneath the auto-plunger bit with q-tips.
Removed the ball popper, cleaned and lubricated it. Replaced
the coil sleeve in the popper coil and picked a bit of gunk
off the plunger (it looks like there was tape there).
Problems with the balls not moving to the right side of the
trough appear to be resolved.
Put the repro powerball in to make the game look nice.
(16 Mar 2002)
Replaced upper-right flipper coil and coil stop. I'm a little
too lazy to replace the whole mechanism yet, but actually the
plunger/link looks okay. The coil stop wasn't that worn (my
High Speed was far worse when I got it) but the stop was
rusted and I could turn the center in the bracket.
(17 Mar 2002)
Lower right flipper rebuilt. Coil is fine. Now we can
backhand the right ramp all the time... not just when the
machine is cold and it's perfectly timed.
(18 Mar 2002)
Lower left flipper and both upper flippers rebuilt. Swapped
the coils on the upper right flippers (I had them backwards!).
I think it's now not possible to hit the right ramp from the
upper-right flipper, and that's probably how it should be.
Put the yellow bumper cap on the outside bumper (where it
belongs). (19 Mar 2002)
Haven't done much in the past month, really. Bought plastics
above the UL flipper (old one was just about garbage--the
flasher had eaten a big hole in it and there was a bit of what
looked like a Whitewater slingshot glued over it to cover the
hole), the slot (cracked), and right-side powerfield sign
(cracked in half). I installed the UL flipper plastic, but
that's it. I also have posts to replace the cracked ones on
the powerfield. I did buy a couple bolts for the backbox,
which is now firmly attached to the rest of the game. Greg
Dunlap was nice enough to send me the promo plastics. (1 May
Jonah notices the game has started resetting (again) when both
flippers hit at the same time. Jon Ferro came over Friday
night and replaced cap C5. This made the game reset much more
frequently. Jon came over today and put an oscilloscope on
the damn thing. Voltage on the CPU board dropped to zero
when we hit both flippers at the same time, but not the power
driver board. Eventually the problem went completely away and
we can't reproduce it at all. Perhaps the stress of trying to
get cap C5 out (twisting the board and such) has caused a bad
trace somewhere? Anyway C5 is jumpered, as per Clay's guide.
The game is playing well. I think I want an oscilloscope.
(12 May 2002)
Jon Ferro started looking around the TZ trying to diagnose
random problems, and discovered a rocker switch in between the
CPU board and found a cute hack job: some enterprising
operator has added a kill switch (with some tiny wire spliced
in) between the coin door and the coin door interface board.
The apparent idea, according to a post on rec.games.pinball
that I can't find, is that if the switch is open, the Service
Credits button doesn't work, and the location pinball jerk
can't put credits on the game without putting coins in,
because he doesn't know about the switch. Jon says it's a
conversation piece. I say it's coming out. Besides, I think
that was the tangle of wire that was blocking the drop-slam
switch from triggering. The switch is out now. I put in a
splice try and keep it together--the cut wire wasn't quite
long enough. Not a great splice, but probably better than
what was there. (14 May 2002)
Right hand coin mech was unlit--no bulb, cut wire. I guess
they just couldn't trust someone not to replace the bulb.
The pricing slip was handwritten (on the back of a disused
one) so maybe it just wasn't appropriate. The slips are kind
of an odd size, or maybe it's just that I don't have the right
parts, and I had to cut a generic "PUSH TO REJECT" one to get
it to fit. But it's lit now. (14 May 2002)
Bent the upper guide in the trough. Balls now reliably make
it into the trough! This helps LITZ scores--drained balls
come back much more quickly! (14 May 2002)
Replaced the right-side playfield slide; it just wasn't
reliable without it. Much better. Removed door light board,
re-soldered header pins. There still seems to be a bad
connection, so it's time to fix the connector. While I had
the board off I cleaned the bulbs and the inserts. I found a
sticker--black on clear plastic--from a location, I think. I
took it off and threw it out, although I need to clean off the
glue. I also raised the game to a proper 6.5° of level,
up by a quarter of a degree. (20 May 2002)
Spent the last week randomly fixing stuff. Swapped the left
and right ramp entrance posts and screwed the bridge to the
left ramp. Now the ball doesn't get thrown off the bridge.
Cleaned under the ramps, cleaned the ramps, cleaned the lock.
Lock rejects fewer balls now. Filled the slot 5-mil target in
with matchsticks and glue; it seems to be more secure. I
can't get the brace rod to fit, though. Game seems to be
exhibiting random reset problems (again), but only when fairly
warm. I suspect a bad connection somewhere. Cleaned the
clock. If the clock is leaned backwards (i.e., playfield is
forward) the hour interrupter will pop against the insert as
it goes around. The insert seems slightly warped, actually,
but it's not easy to fix.
(28 May 2002)
I'm sick of random reset problems and RAM lossage. I took the
boards to someone to repair them. I also pulled the scoop out
and am going to have that re-welded. (31 May 2002)
This was a few months ago. I took the PDB and CPU boards to
Sunnyvale Amusement Company. FACTORY SETTINGS RESTORED
problem is gone (replaced the RAM). They seem to have think
they fixed a reset problem but I'm still having them
occasionally. George came out and replaced a flipper coil;
this actually solved most of the problems (game was resetting
*constantly*). Game was okay for a while, then started
resetting when a couple flippers fire at the same time.
Perhaps J101 is bad; perhaps it's a playfield problem with the
flippers. Game is resetting infrequently or not at all now.
I don't know why. The good news is I'm no longer losing
settings on a regular basis. I'm looking forward to the
replay score changing and staying that way. The only time it
did that before was during a party--it never lasted long
enough otherwise. (15 Oct 2002)
This bit was months ago now:
Took the scoop off to see about having it fixed. Took the
flipper buttom boards off to examine them. The screws for the
flipper boards are longer than the ones for the scoop. Guess
which ones I ran through the playfield (!). Damage is
definite but minor. Some of it is under mylar; I'm afraid
when I pull the mylar off I'll take paint with it. I lost
interest in getting the game going for a while, in part due to
this. Scoop is still not re-welded. (15 Oct 2002)
With the above incident, the net positive is that the
left-side flipper opto board has been changed to a Pinball Lizard board, so the
left side flippers work really good. The right side got a new
plastic interrupter (For Amusement Only
had them) and so it works better, too, even though the right
side board is some bootleg thing. (29 Oct 2002)
Spliced in a connector for the speaker wires so that I can
take the whole header panel off. Replaced J101 on power
driver board. J101 had already been rebuilt a few months ago.
I'm hoping the connector is new enough. Replaced most of the
apparently bad pins in J120; connector housing still marginal
since I don't have a good 11 pin housing to replace it.
Replaced header pins at J120. Replace LM339 at U6 since the
GI doesn't dim. GI still doesn't dim; Clay's guide says U1,
74LS374 gets abuse next. Plugged DMD power output into one of
the plugs on the bottom of the PDB. Blew out a fuse, maybe
abused some coils. Game seems no worse for wear. Labeled DMD
power connector like I should have six months ago.
(13 Nov 2002)
Right flipper was sticking; moved it up. The bushing appeared
to have lots of top on it. Put toothpicks and glue in slot
5-million target, since it's been loose. Replaced the Clock
target, which was so worn you can kind of splay the parts
apart, with a PBR enhanced target. Replaced missing screws in
pop bumper caps (the ones that I had when I got the game were
generally junk and I left them off). Replaced broken ground
wire on the prop rod (I suppose I didn't really need to do
that). Replaced a missing screw somewhere, too. (17 Nov
At some point in the last several months I shelled out the
bucks to fix the DMD hoping it would fix the reset problems;
besides I've seen the earliest signs of outgassing on the
original DMD. Didn't help much but it sure looks nice. (29
A few months back Dave lent me a power driver board (his poor,
neglected Doctor Who was using it, but no one was using his
poor, negleceted Doctor Who). Everything ran fine for like a
month (which is to say, I kept the board too long). Then it
reset. I'm now convinced that there's something wrong with
regards to the game in general, but it's just marginally
wrong, and on TZ that's more than enough. Since I moved
earlier this month I never put the power board back in, and
I haven't re-installed it. (29 Mar 2003)
Replaced power driver board after socketing and replacing U1
to make the GI work better. Before, it wouldn't dim. Now, it
won't dim and a string is out.
(2 Apr 2003)
Slam switch was making contact with the coin door causing a
ground short! Switch matrix problem solved. No resets since
rebuilding J101's header and 9VAC pins.
(2 Apr 2003)
Scoop re-welded by Ray at Action Pinball. Now if I would only
re-install it. (23 Apr 2003)
Chris Kuntz resurrected the game. First, he re-seated U9.
Then he replaced BR2 (AGAIN) and cleaned up the work on the
power driver board. The inter-board splice connector appears
to have been dirty. Chris re-seated it... and no more resets!
(Yet!) (29 Apr 2005)
- Magna-flip plastic cracked in half. I'm not installing the
new one until I convince myself I'm not going to have future
airball problems. Some posts on the Power field need to be
replaced, too (fortunately I've got spares).
- Haven't replaced coil sleeves on upper right bumper
- Miscellaneous mostly repairable cabinet damage (some
certificate mounting thing on the right side).
- Spiral magnets have grooves from wear. I'm not sure how
to fix them (not sure how to get the part apart).
Very weird screws for both lower flipper mounts; did someone
have something against the #6 hex screws that Williams shipped
the game with?
I still get airballs off the slot 5-million target. It's the
reinforced Pinball Resource design but it's not braced yet.
I can't get the brace to fit and I probably need to cut it
down a little bit.
Airballs, apparently off the right ramp post (no screw on top
of this post--it was sheared off).
Bridge doesn't seem to be exactly feeding the ball to the mini
Game is generally beat up. Rust on certain metal parts; most
above-playfield screws look like they've lost metal plating.
Cabinet artwork is messed up near the legs.
Right side flipper board is some mutant thing. Someone
removed the original "type 1" metal interrupter and replaced
it with a single-sided homemade looking opto board and a type
2 plastic interrputer. The only reason I can think of is that
according to Joel Cook and Fred Kemper, they wired the type 2
boards backwards so they aren't exactly compatible, and
someone was out of type 1 parts--so some enterprising
individual made a board for themselves. But hey, it says
"BALLY" on it, it must be original--right? I could replace
this with a PBLiz
Flipper Opto Board (which I have) and a metal interrupter
plate (which I don't).
GI doesn't dim. U1, U6 replaced; will try replacing both at
the same time, I guess.
Right playfield GI is out. Bad connector J120. J120 housing burned.
Will replace housing and switch GI to #159 bulbs.
Clock lens cracked. Have uninstalled replacement.
Tim Showalter / email@example.com
last modified by tjs at Sat Apr 30 10:54:44 2005