Back to the Future
- Plug in, power on, some coils lock on. Unplug,
- Check +5V, has about 1.6V. That's bad. Two bad
caps on +5V regulator (problem nailed
before we loaded the game onto his truck, much less
plugged the game in). Replaced and +5V comes right
Bad +5V causes transistors to wander. Both 50V coils
(knocker and VUK) locked on when we powered the game on.
Replace TIP36c, driver TIP122, and pre-driver 2N4401.
Start game. One flipper doesn't work, the other locks on.
We find the flipper board has cracked headers. I solder
the 50V to the 9V with predictable results.
After some hunting,
Flipper parts had slop. Coils seemed worn (can't get sleeve
out easily). All replaced with new parts from
Weird Pinball Life parts have 4mm hex head screws, but
that's okay, I have a 4mm hex key in my kit now.
New coil stops from Chris; new coil stop screws from Chris.
Old coil stop screws badly stripped, but Chris did manage
to get them out.
Apparently the green under-ramp flashers burned their
associated inserts. The inserts had been "repaired"
by covering the entire under-ramp area with acryllic,
then doodling a green circle in Sharpie where the insert
*used* to be. We raided one of Chris' old playfields for
four 1-inch green inserts. Since the playfield was from
Coment, it had multipliers, which came off with a razor blade.
We glued in the new inserts somewhat sloppily, since
under the ramp, you can't tell anyway. The cosmetics
are *much* improved.
Displays look great. But when the flipper board is
unplugged, one of the displays looks like it's not
getting full voltage, or is out-gassed.
Figure that out before you stop caring and
just plug the flipper board back in.
Tim Showalter / firstname.lastname@example.org